Looking at this photograph one could easily assume it was taken in Europe or United Kingdom – not so… until the 19th century, this ‘Great Mosque’ dating back to the 11thCentury, was the largest and oldest visible mosque in East Africa.
To arrive here, we had sailed approximately 1800 nautical miles along the East Coast of Southern Africa. My husband and I, having begun our cruising adventure on ‘Karibu’ our 37’catamaran, in Durban, almost 8 months earlier.
I have to say right here, that I am not a good sailor and, thank goodness, my husband is happy to do most of it (except for a few watches and stints at the helm to afford him much needed rest). He is content to have me serve him all manner of scrumptious meals and baked goods, and to read to him as we cover the somewhat monotonous nautical miles, between exciting new landfalls.
For those not able to follow our mode of transport, multiple flights arrive daily into the coastal town of Kilwa Mosoko, from various destinations within Tanzania and Zanzibar; or travellers with less time constraints, a scenic 4-6 hour road-trip from Dar es Salaam will offer an exciting precursor to an African adventure. (insert Karibu.jpg here) As for us, we were fortunate to have been able to take a twelve month sabbatical from our day jobs, to follow our life-long dream of living the cruiser’s life and to explore destinations which often can only be reached by boat.
As a travel guide, we had purchased a copy of Delwyn McPhun’s, ‘East Coast Pilot’ and read enthusiastically of the antiquity and heritage of this less commercialised, overlooked historic treasure, with its relics and buried cities. Eager to explore, we followed directions to the government buildings to obtain permits and a guide to lead us to the ruins across the channel.
Situated on two small islands just off Kilwa Masoko, (about 300km south of Dar es Salaam) are the remains of two port cities, Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara (UNESCO World Heritage Sites). The larger, Kilwa Kisiwani was occupied from the 9th to 19th century and reached the height of prosperity in the 13th and 14th centuries.
Our guide, the friendly and well informed Saidi, who spoke excellent English, told us that Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara were Swahili trading cities; their prosperity based on control of trade with Arabia, India and China, through the 13th and 16th centuries, when gold and ivory from the interior was traded for perfumes, silver, Persian ceramics and Chinese porcelain. The remains of Kilwa Kisiwani cover much of the island with many parts of the city still unexcavated.
Archaeologists & UNESCO became interested in Kilwa ruins because they bear witness to the expansion of Swahili coastal culture, Islamic influence in East Africa, and prosperous Indian Ocean trade, from the medieval period up to the modern era. Important standing ruins, built of coral and lime mortar, include the ‘Great Mosque’, constructed in the 11th century and significantly enlarged in the 13th century; roofed entirely with domes and vaults, some decorated with embedded Chinese porcelain.
We visited Gereza fort, on the northern part of the island. The cemetery with its curious tombstones, and the site of the Makutini Palace (palace of great walls) said to have housed sultans. Most impressive is the ruin of Husani Kubwa on the cliff-top overlooking the entrance to Kilwa bay. In its day, this massive fortification had a roof hung from a central conical dome some 30mt high, covering 100 rooms and chambers.
We anchored off Kilwa Ruins Lodge, relishing in the welcoming conviviality and warmth of the guests and owners, spending several evenings sipping ice-cold sundowners under the thatched beach bar, and restocking victuals from the market. Here is a photograph of a prehistoric coelacanth- a living fossil (a fish thought to be extinct, until the first one was rediscovered off the coast of South Africa in 1938). This one was caught by one of the locals and frozen by James, the manager of the lodge, for dispatch to the Smithsonian Institute. (insert coelacanth.jpg here)
The islands along this coast are strewn with ruins and Songo Mnara is no exception. It is recognized as the most impressive of all Swahili townscapes, including more than 40 coral-built houses and room-blocks, five mosques and several cemeteries. Occupation of the site was brief, from the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries AD, coinciding with the golden age of Swahili stone-towns along the eastern African coast. Such towns were home to a cosmopolitan and indigenous form of urbanism that connected Africa with the Indian Ocean world system from AD 700 to 1500.
If you’re looking for that ‘off-the-beaten-track’ setting – one steeped in history, offering fascinating ancient ruins; enthralling African safaris, spectacular diving and sport-fishing, or relaxation on soft white-sand beaches, visit this little known enchanting utopia with accommodation ranging from rustic thatched bungalows to unusual exotic resorts. We consider ourselves extremely privileged to have witnessed this and I highly recommend it to the adventurous traveller seeking a plethora of attractions.